So, went to Sonoma Raceway on Wednesday for some passes like normal lol. Ran alright I guess, basically 12.9-13.1 every pass, until I had a trans issue that killed me lol.
I knew something was up, because it did sounded pretty weird during my burnout. The rest just check the video and pics.
Video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQdcrQdrbHM
Pics
http://imageshack.us/f/850/b0gr.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/f/46/te71.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/f/443/5312.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/f/821/kux4.jpg/
Hey there.
I am currently tuning/rebuilding a Volvo 850R and would like a head with more flow, eg. from the RN series. Does anybody havecasting numbers for these? Could a RNC head fit the bill, or will something regarding the cooling make this hard/impossible?
Thanks, Jan
Anyone have part numbers handy, and a source that has reasonable prices? Thanks!
-Erik
Quick question for you guys!
So I just ordered some gauges and one of them is a voltage gauge. When I was going through and setting up some of the wiring tonight, I came across a problem that might persist, one that I am not quite sure how to fix. So basically, I want to hook up the two gauges so that when the interior lights are dimmed using the dimmer, the backlights will dim as well. I have seen this before and it seems relatively easy. I have the boost gauge install all figured out but the volt gauge I am not quite sure on for one reason. That is, how is the volt gauge supposed to read accurately if the positive is connected to the positive feed in the dimmer switch and the negative to ground? Won't the positive feed change depending on the dimness that the switch is set to? If so, is there any way I can go about fixing this? I know the gauge I ordered has a black and a red wire coming out the back.
Thanks,
Max
My 2002 C70 Coupe has always had a bit of a body roll issue, but I understand this is fairly normal. I had Bilstein Touring Class shocks and struts installed when I first got it (needed new shocks BAD) which helped a lot, but still had normal roll. Then recently, I got some pretty bad swaying at highway speeds and figured it was time for new tires so I did so and it got rid of the dangerous feeling, but I'm still getting tons of body roll and pretty sad cornering.
So, I'm thinking IPD springs or sway bar kit.
I'd love the aggressive lowered stance with the springs (and frankly less expensive mod than the sway bar kit) but will this be a good idea on my touring class shocks/struts? Also I have the 17" BBS Volvo wheels, am I gonna destroy my tires on sharp/fast turns?
Maintenance repair while the suspension is taken apart like spring seats and end links would be a good idea right?
I'm extremely satisfied with the power I'm getting I just want to be able to make a quick turn without being embarrassed about how far she leans or have to push myself upright during cornering!
Hey everyone -
Brandon & I just finished swapping the harness in my 98 S70 T5-M. My manual harness was bad & as a result the AC wouldn't start up. We pulled a V70 GLT Auto harness at the junk yard.
Everything works now, the swap went smoothly & the AC works perfectly.
Except, of course, the Cruise Control. We clipped 3T off the relay & still no-go. Double checked vac lines & power. I've been searching around & those are the only two suggestions I've found for troubleshooting. Can anyone suggest some alternatives?
Thanks!
Hey All,
Since i've gotten my s60 i have been non-stop modifying it. At first it was supposed to be my reliable quite DD however fate had another plan
so far:
-turbo inlet (custom)
-HD TCV
-HD CBV
-3" catless DP
-HD coils
-IPD Induction kit
-lowering springs
-R wheels
-boost gauge
- mods currently working on = trans cooler, and FMIC.
and a TONNNEEE of stage 0 things such as:
silicone hoses, vacuum lines, software updates to TCU, servo update, trans flush, plugs, re-wire loom.
Now, im looking to get more serious. i know lots of you guys harp on the 2.4T having a higher compression ratio but it still seems low relative to most mazdas and honda's out there. I'd like to see what i can get out of this engine. Also read one of lucky's articles stating the LPT is stronger then what most think.
What im looking for is what type of turbo and tune should i run, do i need an R manifold? and anyone run aquiamist? And after all of that what kind of results can i see. Has it been done before? searching LPT stuff is hard.
Thanks!!!!
Looking to do a BBK on my t5r. Braking can get quite scary at sometimes, so I would like to have some additional stopping power. Looking for advice from people who have either fitted a BBK to titans or a similar wheel.
Im going to post the info that I have researched below.
From my understanding if I want to fit any type of BBK in the front and clear my titans, i will need atleast 17.5mm spacers, recommended 20mm.
Right now, I barely fit my finger between the wheel(205/45/17) and the wheel liner / arc... This means i will most likely need to roll my front fenders, not that big of an issue as i only need 10-12mm more space to fit the 20mm spacers.
Im a little worried about the car looking a little strange the wheels pushed out even further than they already are. 20mm isnt a lot and maybe its just my eyes placing tricks on me because the fender liner edge is still there which is making that 20mm of space i need seem non existent.
long story short, i have a 95 R with a 96+ M56H trans and my speedo does not work. i know i need to tap into the speed sensor on the wheel (ABS) but i need to know what the stock speed sensor looks like so i can find it. any help will be greatly appreciated.
mike
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?199193-a-little-issue-(stereo)!&p=2190860#post2190860
would like to pic up parts i need, tonight!
RSI -or- Wiseco
So i have the chance to buy some seats from a 2000 s40 in alot better condition than my current seats, First off would they fit just standard, or would i have to modify them in some way? Does anyone have any information on this swap?
What about rear seats?
Is it possible to modify a drive by wire car to actually improve throttle response? Or is this something simply baked into how powerful the ECU and corresponding sensors are?
I'm comparing an 850 to the s60. Doing a tune definitely helped but there's still that awful disconnect feeling
Long story short, I've picked up a 99 V70XC that needs a new bumper, hood, headlights and radiator support. Should I just replace the XC stuff, go to an R bumper, or do fenders too and put an 850 face on it?
My 01 XC toasted a piston a few months ago, with only 83k on the clock. So I figured I'd fix her up in style. I'm snagging a 2.5R motor off of ebay, I figure it's the strongest motor Volvo made so I wouldn't have to swap pistons or do any internal modifications. I'd really like to net about 300+ WHP, my only fear however is the destruction of my 5-speed=( Is it plausible to run this much power more/less on an auto? An m66 is out of my budget at the moment, so I'd like to keep my trans alive until it is. Another thing that I figure would come with this much power would be a fuel pump upgrade. What is the limit of the factory pump exactly? I don't want to buy anything I don't have to.
Here's some of the parts I have now.
-New 18T
-Boost controller
-OBX downpipe
-Blue Injectors(do I need bigger?)
-IPD coils
-K&N filter
-R aluminum turbo-intercooler pipe(mostly cosmetic lol)
IPD- R silicon couplers
Going to acquire:
-Timing belt & water pump
-PCV service kit
-ARD tune(I hear this guy will do the tune for manual for $250. Better than paying twice later on down the road=) )
-3" exhaust system
-Boost guage(what are some good ones?)
-ATF cooler
-Intercooler(what's the best factory fit FMIC?)
-What am I missing?????
I hope to start collecting these parts as I have Christmas break of in December to start working on this.
Thanks for the help guys=)
this may be the wrong forum 
but,
does anybody have the original 81.5mm spec sheet for the wiseco 2.3L pistons? i lost mine and don't know where to find it! its like a yellow piece of paper that tells u clearances and such maybe if somebody can take a pic and upload it? or maybe someone knows of one online that would be great to get! thanks in advance
Speakers are not physically buzzing.
There is a sort of interference/whine/nuisance coming from my speakers. I think it has to with alternator because it only does it when the car is running and the pitch of the whine fluctuates with the rpms. The louder the volume, the louder the whine.
My set up is in my sig, have a 12" Polk Audio DXi sub with an Alpine V-power amp and other crap. I have a recording of it which ill try to post later.
Edit: here hopefully this works. theres music for the first 8 seconds and then i rev it a little. Then I talk to myself lol
Hello VS,
So I currently have a 2002 2.4T LPT single VVT motor installed on my 1998 V70 AWD running an ARD Blue tune and 18T with supoorting mods. I am trying to get the most out of this setup for the next year or so as I get ready for a bigger build. One thing that has been nagging me is that I never set the cam timing per the ARD website and I think it's keeping me from getting the most HP.
I didn't mess with the VVT when I swapped in the motor. I just left the solenoid unplugged and mounted the new timing belt per VIDA instructions by turning past the mark and then turning the crank backwards to relieve the spring pressure on the hub.
My question is how to set the cam timing to ARD's reccomended specs of "For ARD Blue tunes, cam timing is recommended to be set at -3 degrees intake and -2 degrees exhaust for stock cars. For cars with downpipe, catback,and intake or FMIC, set the exhaust cam to -3 degree.
I would greatly appreciate some help clearing this up. I was goign to pickup the IPD timing tool but it says only 1995-1998 or somethign so I didn't know if it was applicable to the RN motors.
So how do you set the cams when workign with a CVVT hub on the exhaust cam? And do I need to redo the timing belt but move the cam forward rather than back to lock the hub in the advanced state?
Thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks in advance for any helpful input or advice.
Have a good night fellas!
Brandon
I was going to keep everything stock, but now that an engine rebuild is on the horizon, I'm thinking of going further to make it worth it. Living in California, I've come to the conclusion (for now anyway) that keeping the exhaust stock is the best option for me. With that in mind, what is the limit? Could I still go with an 18t, or does that require a downside change? Would all this work be for naught if I were to keep the exhaust stock?
